Urban – Latin America For Less https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog Travel Blog Fri, 04 Mar 2022 21:45:38 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=5.9.10 https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2019/10/cropped-favicon-pfl-blog-1-32x32.png Urban – Latin America For Less https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog 32 32 Buenos Aires Neighborhoods: A Complete Guide https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/buenos-aires-neighborhoods/ Mon, 13 Jul 2020 01:00:31 +0000 http://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/?p=16669 Buenos Aires is the diverse and culturally rich capital city of Argentina, frequently visited for its stunning European-style architecture and vibrant social life. This city has the highest concentration of theaters on earth. Being the second-largest metropolitan area in South America (after Greater São Paulo), Buenos Aires is divided into various districts, or barrios, each with its own unique charm. Which barrio is your favorite? Explore the highlights of 6 Buenos Aires barrios, from La Boca to Recoleta

La Boca: Colorful artsy vibes

Highlights

– La Bombonera Stadium
– Caminito (colorful streets)
– Outside tango shows

La Boca is home to two of Buenos Aires’ most famed attractions: the football stadium La Bombonera and Caminito, the colorful artists’ street by the water.

Boca neighborhood of Buenos AiresColor fills your world in La Boca
Photo by Marc Turcan

La Boca literally translates to “the mouth” in English. This barrio was named as such because it is located at the mouth of the river Riachuelo. Its proximity to the river is in fact what ensures the existence of La Boca: it was home to a shipyard and the houses of individuals who worked there. Most of the houses were constructed using cast-off ship materials like sheet metal, planks and iron. Currently, La Boca is a working-class neighborhood that is still frequented by tourists for its various attractions.

La Bombonera

The Alberto J. Armando stadium is widely known as La Bombonera. This world-famous football stadium got its name due to its shape: a “flat” stand on one end of the field, and 3 other steep stands around the remainder of the stadium.

La Bombonera football stadium La Boca Buenos Aires ArgetinaFootball is Argentina’s most popular sport
Photo by JorgeAburman/Flickr

You can do a tour of La Bombonera, but the best way to explore it is by attending an actual game. If you get the chance, watch the Boca Juniors compete with their rival team River Plate. The clash between the two sides is named the Superclasico, and is often included on “100 things to see before you die” lists.

A colorful stop: Caminito

You cannot go to La Boca without visiting Caminito, the work of local La Boca artist Benito Quinquela Martín. In the 1960s this artist started a project of painting the walls of what were then abandoned streets. He erected a stage for performances, and artists soon flocked to the area. With charming streets, colorful iron houses and various artist studios, this is a unique area, but has also become a tourist hub in recent years.

caminito la boca buenos airesThe tinted houses of La Boca: why live in black and white when you can choose color?
Photo by Marissa Strniste/Flickr

Don’t leave Caminito without enjoying one of the wonderful open-air tango shows! These shows can best be enjoyed from the comfort of one of the outdoor cafés. Take in color and culture at the same time!

caminito tango la boca buenos airesDinner and a show: you can enjoy both in La Boca
Photo by Shubhika Bharathwaj/Flickr

There is generally an artsy vibe in La Boca. Visit the wonderfully modern and contemporary art museum that has international art exhibitions and a gourmet café with a river view. There are only a few good restaurants in La Boca, including El Obrero, but no nightclubs or bars. Many consider La Boca as an area that is to be avoided after dark, so taking taxis to and from your destination is recommended.

Palermo: The boutique suburb

Highlights

– A shopper’s paradise
– Scrumptious eating and drinking options
– Vibrant nightlife
– Close proximity to the city center

Palermo is one of the hippest districts of Buenos Aires and it attracts fashionistas and business people alike. Palermo is a great barrio to see on your Buenos Aires tour, as it is located just 20 minutes outside the city center. This largest district (by size) is often visited by both locals and tourists for its countless trendy cafés, restaurants, bars, nightclubs, parks, galleries, shops, museums and markets.

street art palermo buenos airesFun street art in the artsy Palermo barrio
Photo by Robert Ostmann/Flickr

 Palermo has 7 subdivisions:

  1. Palermo Chico/Barrio Parque
  2. Palermo Norte/Alto Palermo/Villa Freud
  3. Palermo Neuvo/Palermo Zoológico
  4. Las Cañitas/La Imprenta
  5. Palermo Viejo
  6. Palermo Soho
  7. Palermo Hollywood

A shopper’s paradise

Palermo is often referred to as the boutique suburb, or simply a shopper’s paradise. Some of the finest boutiques of Buenos Aires are in Palermo, from specialty stores, to wine stores and clothing boutiques. Palermo Soho is especially noted for its shopping opportunities, and for its weekend market on Plaza Serrano.

Shopping at the Feria de Plaza Serrano, Palermo SohoShopping at the Feria de Plaza Serrano, Palermo Soho
Photo by jennifer yin/Flickr

Many new stores have opened up in recent years in Palermo and designers are working hard to get their brands out there. Both chain stores and independent boutiques can be found throughout the barrio, and it seems like a mini-city in itself.

Probably the biggest shopping area in all of Buenos Aires is Avenida Sante Fe, also known as the “Avenue of fashion.” This 2 mile long (3.5 km) stretch of shopping is lined with various stores, from edgy to elegant, to satisfy shoppers with different kinds of budgets. The street includes the upscale Alto Palermo Shopping, the city’s best known department store containing most of Argentina’s top chains. It first opened in 1990 and is now a favorite shopping center of Buenos Aires.

Get your wine, dine… and dance on!

There are also plenty of wining and dining options throughout Palermo. Plaza Serrano does not just have a lovely market, but it is also a great place to have an afternoon beer in the sun at one of the bars with big outdoor terraces. While Palermo Soho is most popular for its drinking and eating options, Palermo Hollywood is a close second.

Sunday brunch at plaza serrano palermoEnjoy an afternoon beverage on Plaza Serrano
Photo by Jennifer Yin/Flickr

If you want to get the most out of dining and nightlife in Buenos Aires, your body clock will need to get in shape! People will dine just prior to midnight, and bars do not really get going until the early morning hours, as they run until 8am and beyond. Palermo hosts a variety of awesome rooftop bars, such as Miloca. Party it up Argentina style!

Palermo Hollywood and Soho have been transformed into nightlife and shopping areas, while the oldest part of the barrio, Palermo Viejo has managed to keep a more low key profile. In general this barrio remains a favorite for backpackers, designers, and hipsters, with its tree-lined cobblestone streets that see new business spring up in old Spanish-style houses and warehouses.


Puerto Madero: Urban planning at its best

Highlights

– Located at the riverbank
– Most recent architectural trends
– Boardwalk/ecological reserve
– Trendy clubs and nightlife
– Brick buildings

Buenos Aires is known as a city that is turned away from the water… so how about a barrio that is located right on the water? Puerto Madero is also referred to as the urban planning community and it looks nothing like any other area of the city! This Buenos Aires barrio lies by the Rio de la Plata riverbank and contains the most recent architectural trends in Buenos Aires. The area has been under intense development for the past 5-10 years.

Puerto Madero buenos aires argentinaA beautiful nighttime view in Puerto Madero
Photo by Boris G/Flickr

In the newly renovated Puerto Madero you will find beautiful brick buildings at the water side, and a mix of modern and historical architecture. As its name would suggest, Puerto Madero was originally a port. The port was however only used for about 15 years in the late 1800’s. The rusting ships and vacant warehouses that were once common have been removed to create a clean and upmarket area.

Visit the Puerto Madero dock area and take some time to explore 2 floating-ship museums: Uruguay and Sarmiento. If you enjoy bridges, you will certainly be impressed by the Puente de la Mujer: a long cabled bridge that spans across the dock 3 area.

A beautiful boardwalk

Puerto Madero includes an ecological reserve with a boardwalk running through it. Take a stroll on the famed boardwalk to enjoy a natural escape located at the water’s edge. This area lies right between the Rio de la Plata and the highrises of Puerto Madero, to give you a taste of both worlds! The boardwalk is frequented by birdwatchers, cyclists and walkers.

Puerto madero boardwalk strollTake a stroll up to the water and take in the beauty of Puente de la Mujer
Photo by Phillip Capper/Flickr

Beautifully maintained trails will lead you through the natural reserve and right up to the waterfront. Just before the entrance of the reserve you will find snack and concession stands selling things like choripan and vaciopan – a must-try!

Nightlife and dining

Puerto Madero is home to some of the city’s newest and coolest places. Nightlife is vibrant and there are plenty of clubbing opportunities. It comes as no surprise that the night haunts in Puerto Madero are high-end. You will find some awesome bars, restaurants and clubs… but each with a hefty price tag!

Restaurant, Puerto Madero, Buenos AiresTickle your taste buds in Puerto Madero!
Photo by Joan Nova/Flickr

Puerto Madero is home to one of the best Italian restaurants in all of Buenos Aires: Sottovoce. Sample their delicious fresh pasta, calamari and local wine… but make sure to save space for their mouth-watering desserts too! My favorite place to go for a drink is Universe bar, the resident bar of the Hotel Faena. Philip Starck designed the décor of this place, and it serves as a perfect backdrop to the DJ’s and live music nights. Finally, if you love to dance the night away, go to Asia de Cuba or Jet Lounge: these popular Puerto Madero bars reign supreme!


San Telmo: Argentine art and culture

Highlights

– Feria de San Telmo (antiques)
– Plaza Dorego – surrounded by old buildings converted into cafés
– Nightlife/restaurants

San Telmo is blessed with beautiful cobblestoned streets, an awesome weekly street market, and a variety of delicious places to eat and drink. This Buenos Aires barrio should not be missed under any circumstance!

San Telmo Buenos Aires Argentinacolorful buildings line this cobblestone street of San Telmo
Photo by Vyacheslav Bondaruk/Flickr

San Telmo dates back to the 17th century and was once an industrial area. Since the middle of the 20th century, San Telmo began attracting artists and creative folk, resulting in a more bohemian vibe. This area also became a hotspot for tango. Currently, San Telmo has become part a tourist trap, part bohemian enclave and part tango central… making it a very interesting place to stay, visit, or live!

Feria de San Telmo and Calle Defensa

Explore the Feria de San Telmo on a Sunday: this is the biggest and most famous artisan market in Buenos Aires. This market was originally created in 1970, in Plaza Dorrego, and has almost 300 antique stalls. This gigantic antique street market sprawls Calle Defensa for almost 2 km (1.2 mi), and turns San Telmo into the most fun part of town. Aside from people selling awesome products, enjoy a variety of music and dance performances!

San Telmo antiques market Buenos AiresFind hidden gems at the San Telmo antique market
Photo by Frank Kehren/Flickr

The San Telmo market is an excellent place to be exposed to Argentine art and culture. Enjoy tango dancing, live music, Argentine food, leather goods, handicrafts, clothing, jewels, toys and many many more items! Once the market madness calms down, enjoy a beer at one of the many bars in the area, and watch open-air milonga.

Feira de San Telmo, Buenos AiresLocal singing talent at the San Telmo market
Photo by Rogerio Tomaz Jr./Flickr

If you cannot make it to San Telmo on a Sunday, you should still go another day! You can enjoy a lovely stroll along Calle Defensa between Avenidas San Juan and Independencia and check out some of the awesome antique shops. Plaza Dorrego has professional tango dancers at most times of the day and week. Enjoy a personal show… but don’t forget to tip! This is a nice place to stop for a drink: this plaza is full of old buildings that were converted into cafés.

Nightlife and restaurants

One awesome thing about San Telmo is that it is filled with interesting bars, nightlife and restaurants. El Desnivel is a much-loved parilla, and known as San Telmo’s “worst-kept secret.” This enormous bustling restaurant offers a great experience! You will be waited on by an entirely male staff, and the service is excellent. Try the Penguinitos (little jugs) of house wine!

Dinner at desnivel San Telmo Buenos AiresWine and dine in style at a San Telmo parilla: Desnivel
Photo by Paula/Flickr

Some say that San Telmo has it all: history, decay, new life, delicious food, antiques, tango, and more. It is definitely not as polished as Palermo, or elegant as Recoleta, but vibrant nonetheless!


Buenos Aires city center: historical highlights

Highlights

– Plaza de Mayo
– Casa Rosada
– Café Tortone
– Avenida 9 de Julio
– Manzana de las luces
– Calle Florida

From a colonial city to a modern metropolis, this city center has been the heart of Buenos Aires city life for more than 4 centuries. The center of Buenos Aires is a hub for history, official government business and political activity. This is also the center for commerce, with an interesting mix of shops, financial institutions, and businesses. Buenos Aires city center includes the official districts of San Nicolas, Retiro, Monserrat, and Balvanera.

Sun setting over congress building buenos airesThe sun sets behind the Congress of Argentina
Photo by  Miguel César/Wikimedia Commons

The city center of Buenos Aires includes many of the must-see sights of Buenos Aires: historical landmarks that give a fascinating introduction into the history and culture of this city. These highlights include:

Plaza de Mayo – The main square and birthplace of Buenos Aires

Casa Rosada – The “Pink House”, or the President’s executive government and office. Here you will see the famous balcony from where President Peron and First Lady Evita would address the Argentine crowds.

Café Tortoni – The oldest and perhaps most stunning café in the city! The café is surrounded by other cafés all founded around 1858, and a grand portion of the original interior has been preserved.

Avenida 9 de Julio/Obelisk – The widest avenue on earth, with the Buenos Aires obelisk monument standing on it proudly

Manzana de las luces – The city’s oldest block of buildings, with a gorgeous courtyard that has 17th century Spanish roots.

Avenida de Mayo – The first “grand boulevard” of the city, lined with marvelous architectural wonders

The Buenos Aires Cathedral – A beautiful building where Pope Francine would give mass, and where Argentina’s Independence hero rests.

Other ancient sites – First church, street and business of Buenos Aires, and the most ancient subway line in the entire Southern Hemisphere

Get the most out of your visit!

Monserrat is located between San Nicolas, San Telmo, Balvanera, and Puerto Madero. This area makes up a piece of the city’s business district and is one of the oldest parts of Buenos Aires, with roots tracing to the colonial era. Here you will find some of the most important public buildings in Argentina, including City Hall, the Ministry of Defense and the government house. It was in Monserrat that Spanish Conquistador Juan de Garay of Austria first set foot in Argentina.

casa rosada in Buenos AiresCasa Rosada is baby pink in color and among the most emblematic buildings in the city.
Photo by Anibal Trejo

If you want to get the most out of your visit, start on Plaza de Mayo, a street lined with architectural marvels and historical sights. The most notable building is Casa Rosada, a majestic, pink government house, internationally famous since Eva Peron’s address to the nation from its balcony. Walk on to see the Piramide de Mayo which marks the middle of the square, and then you will be only steps away from idyllic buildings liken the Cabildo (City Hall) and Buenos Aires Metropolitan Cathedral.

Avenida de Mayo Buenos Aires ArgentinaTake a stroll on the historically rich Avenida de Mayo
Photo by Benjamin Dumas/Flickr

When visiting the city center, don’t forget to make a stop at Café Tortoni, the oldest café of Buenos Aires. This coffeehouse is located on Avenida de Mayo and was inaugurated in 1858. Its name is derived from a Parisian café and inspired by Fin de siècle coffee houses. Many consider it as one of the most beautiful cafés in the world. Café Tortoni is one of my favorite places to see the tango in Buenos Aires. Move past the grandeur and sparkling marble floors to see the back room: a place dedicated to jazz and tango shows. As it has become a must-see landmark, you can however expect a queue to get in…even if you arrive at 11am!

Tango at Cafe Tortoni in Buenos Aires ArgentinaA true depiction of Argentine charm: Tango at café Tortoni
Photo by Miguel Vieira/Flickr

After you satisfy your culinary tastebuds, make a stop at Manzana de Luces (The Illuminated Block) to see a block of 18th century buildings that includes the Buenos Aires National College. Make sure to look at their agenda for exhibitions, workshops, theater productions and film screening.

Your last stop is Calle Florida, a place where you can enjoy the soul and passion of Buenos Aires: Tango. Calle Florida is one of the main tourist attractions of Buenos Aires in this regard. In the evening street performers head to this area, including tango dancers and singers, to put on amazing shows. Aside from enjoying the tango, head to the retail stores, restaurants and shopping arcades that all lie along Calle Florida.

Recoleta: The Little Paris of Buenos Aires

Highlights

– Stunning European-inspired architecture
– Cemetery of Recoleta
– Historic luxury hotels
– Upscale boutiques
– Plaza Francia/Feria Artesanal

Recoleta is the cultural center of Buenos Aires and one of the most elegant barrios. Many buildings in Recoleta are considered as national monuments and stunning palaces line the streets. Often referred to as the “Little Paris in Buenos Aires,” Recoleta is known for its cemetery, French-inspired architecture, grand gardens and squares.

A place to honor life: Recoleta Cemetery

The Cemetery of Recoleta was founded in the 19th century and has gained a great deal of importance over the years. Famous and well-renowned figures, such as Evita and former presidents, writers and artists are buried in the cemetery. In 2013, CNN listed the Cemetery of Recoleta as one of the 10 most beautiful cemeteries in the world.

cemeterio de la recoleta mausoleumsGrand mausoleums such as these are a typical sight at the Cemeterio de la Recoleta
Photo by Bunnicula/Flickr

Aside from the impressive and historic cemetery, the Basilica of Nuestra Senora del Pilar, among the oldest churches in the city, is worth a visit. This church is a great sample of Spanish colonial architecture and visible from Plaza Francia.

Plaza Francia: A place for genuine Argentine craftsmanship

Facing the Recoleta Cemetery is the Plaza Intendente Alvear, popularly, yet mistakenly known as Plaza Francia. This plaza gained importance since the 1960s for its street fair, then named the feria hippie. Currently, the fair is grand in scale and attracts genuine Argentine craftspeople and artisans, and a wide variety of street vendors and merchants.

Buenos Aires Recoleta Plaza FranciaChill out at the street fair: a view of the Northern portion of Plaza Francia
Photo by Galio/Wikimedia Commons

The Feria Artesanal Plaza Francia covers nearly the entire Plaza Francia during weekends. This is one of the best places to buy stunning, high quality Argentine artisan goods, including jewelry, leather, metalwork and ceramics. You can also expect to see street performances, art exhibits, curio shops, and sport events. You will be entertained by the music, food stands, and marvelous craftsmanship. On weekdays, Plaza Francia turns into a quiet park.

Luxury hotels and shopping

Recoleta is the most cultured area of Buenos Aires, and also the location of most of the city’s luxurious hotels. For a sample of this, head to Avenida Alvear, a street lined with majestic apartment buildings and historic hotels. After a visit to the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (MNBA), walk down Avenida Libertador until you reach a crossroad, turn right and you will be on Avenida Alvear. Walk down this street to see the Alvear Palace Hotel and the Palacio Duhau Park Hyatt Hotel with their grand presence. These upscale hotels are elegant spots to enjoy some English team, brunch, or a glass of vino tinto (red wine).

Palacia Duhau recoleta Buenos airesThe elegant Palacia Duhau was originally built in 1934 for the Duhau family
Photo by Wally Gobetz/Flickr

The advantage of staying in Recoleta is that it offers the best residences, classiest neighborhoods and top service. Foodies can enjoy a wide range of delicious dining options. This area is also conveniently located near to downtown and other touristic attractions.

Last but not least, Recoleta is also frequented for its upscale boutiques and fashionable stores. Check out the latest local fashion designs at Buenos Aires Design. Recoleta is renowned for its shopping opportunities and the most important Italian and French designers have shops there. As this is however the most upscale neighborhood of Buenos Aires, you can expect pricey shopping, most notably in the up market shops along the luxurious Avenida Alvear.

Each Buenos Aires barrio has interesting features and unique highlights. Find a perfect mix of modern and ancient architecture and walk in the footsteps of history.

Plan your own adventure to Argentina! Contact us to speak with one of our expert travel advisors and customize a trip to Argentina.

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South America street art: Creativity with an urban canvas https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/south-america-street-art-creativity-with-an-urban-canvas/ Thu, 26 Sep 2013 22:10:16 +0000 http://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/?p=8665 Street art is making an international impact and its growing popularity in South America has not gone unnoticed. Take a peek at the South America street art movement through some of the most impressive works found in Peru, Brazil, and Argentina.

Street…..Art? We think so.

While there is little consensus around the actual history of street art – some claim its beginnings in New York City, others trace the roots as far back as pictographs painted on canyon walls- the growing trend of street art in urban centers is hardly debatable. This summer, Fodor’s released a list of the top 10 cities for street art, and South American destinations dominated, occupying a third of the seats. With a spike in the movement following the attention received by famous street artist Banksy, artists are popping up all over, painting and plastering their works on the sides of buildings, sidewalks, billboards and more. The reputation of some South American cities as thriving centers of street art culture has invited artists both locally, regionally and internationally to create their own works of art. Alongside Buenos Aires, Argentina; Santiago, Chile; and Sao Paul, Brazil on Fodor’s list were some internationally renowned centers of creativity like London, New York City and Melbourne. Although Peru didn’t make Fodor’s list, some up-and-coming artists are worthy of attention and included below.

1. Buenos Aires, Argentina

Buenos Aires is fair game for street artists, so long as the owners of the building give consent. These progressive policies and the thriving art scene have not only encouraged local artists, but invited contributions from international art big names like Blu, Jef Aerosol, Aryz and Ron English.

Street Art, South America, urban vacations, Peru For LessStreet art by BLU Photo by BA Street Art

This politically charged piece by famous Italian Street Artist, BLU, is just another in the list of walls transformed into his canvas in Buenos Aires.

Street art, South America, Peru For LessStreet art by Martin Ron/Buenos Aires, Argentina Photo from Fat Cap

This piece by Ron, one of Buenos Aires’ most prolific artists, joins other outstanding works in the popular street art neighborhood of Via Urquiza.

Street Art, South America, urban vacations, Peru For LessStreet art by Martin Ron / Buenos Aires, Argentina Photo from Street Art Utopia

Another piece by artist Martin Ron located in the Caseros neighborhood of Buenos Aires.

2. Santiago and Valparaiso, Chile

Although street art is illegal in Chile, the government seems to turn a blind eye when it comes to the Barrio Bellavista  –  the thriving center of the Chilean street art scene. Street art by LRMStreet art by LRM & Charquipunk/ Valparaiso, Chile Photo from FatCap.com

This piece was a collaborative effort by LRM (La Robot de Madera) and Charquipunk, two of Valparaiso’s most famed artists. Their work can also be found on the walls of Buenos Aires.

Street Art, South America street art, Peru For LessStreet Art Museo a Cielo Abierto / Santiago, Chile Photo from Charles C Lynch/ Flickr

Called ‘the most colorful museum in the world’, this collection of street art can be found in the San Miguel neighborhood of Santiago, Chile.

3. Sao Paulo and Rio de Janiero, Brazil

Batman Alley, a street art mecca in this thriving industrial city is littered with works by famous locals like Os Gêmeos and Vlok. The graffiti corridor is regularly painted over and artists begin anew.

 Street Art, Peru For LessBy Kobra / Sao Paulo, Brazil Photo from MC Winkel/Design und so

This 52-meter tall mural by Kobra honors architect Oscar Niemeyer who died in December 2012 at nearly 105 years of age. This incredible mural covers the entire side of a skyscraper in Sao Paulo’s financial district.

Street Art, Peru For LessBy JR / “Women are Heroes” / Rio de Janeiro, Brazil Photo from Jr-art.net

In the Moro de Providencia favela in Rio de Janeiro Brazil, street artist JR painted the faces of women who are the primary victims of war, rape, crime and violence.  In August 2008 the art exhibition, Women, took over this notoriously violent favela.

4. Lima, Peru

Although Peru is perhaps a step behind it’s South American neighbors in regards to the street art scene, it doesn’t seem it will stay that way for long. Up-and-coming artists like Decertor and Eliot Tupac are making their way into the international pool of talented artists, drawing attention, and art, to the walls of Lima.

Street art by Eliot Tupac By Eliot Tupac/ Lima, Peru Photo from Fatcap.com

Tupac and Decertor, two of Lima’s most well-known and prolific artists came together to create a set of works under the name ‘prueba y error’.

Street Art, Peru For LessBy Decertor / Lima, Peru Photo from misionmisericordia

The works that Decertor and Tupac create together are an attempt to express one idea through unique tactics. Tupac’s contribution is marked by the neon letters, while Decertor tends to create the surrealistic human forms.

While there is some continued discourse as to whether or not this is truly “art”, the street art movement, often dubbed the post-graffiti movement, is clearly different from territorial graffiti or corporate art. We think some of it is truly impressive. How about you? Let us know what you think and leave a comment below.


Articles, videos, and more

Articles: Street Art News Blog: South America’s Wave of Street Art Festivals Global Voices: Graffiti and Urban Art Voices from Latin American Streets Books: Nuevo-Mundo-Latin-American-Street Videos: Women are Heroes Brazilian Graffiti Artists go to Extraordinary Lengths A compilation of South American Street Art

Take an urban tour of South America

Contact our team of expert travel advisors to customize your own tour to South America.

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El Zanjon: A peek beneath Buenos Aires https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/el-zanjon-a-peek-beneath-buenos-aires/ Sat, 21 Sep 2013 09:00:42 +0000 http://latinamericaforless.com/blog/?p=177 If you’re visiting Buenos Aires, you’re probably intending to spend time enjoying the city’s enchanting atmosphere, rich culture, and grand architecture during your Argentina travels. What lies beneath your feet might seem much less interesting. However, there is a surprise in store for you…

Content


The secrets of subterranean Buenos Aires
How to get to El Zanjón
Photos and video
Experience a Buenos Aires tour

The secrets of subterranean Buenos Aires

One of the city’s most fascinating – and little known – places is actually hidden deep underground in Buenos Aires’ colonial San Telmo district, and it is below the foundation of a 178-year-old mansion that you’ll find one of the most unusual museums during your time in Argentina.

El Zanjón de Granados is a museum that offers a subterranean window into Buenos Aires’ long history, revealing how life in the city has changed since it was first established by the Spanish conquistador Pedro de Mendoza in the 16th century.

Screen Shot 2013-09-18 at 12.24.45 PM

The history beneath your feet. Photo from El Zanjón/Facebook.

A labyrinth of tunnels, passages and various rooms from which a range of artifacts have been recovered, El Zanjón (meaning “the hole” in English) contains a slave cell, a water cistern and various other remnants from a time when the ravine was inhabited.

 

Numerous colonial era antiques have been recovered, including African pipes, English china and French tiles, as well historic coins, ceramics, hair brushes and other items which are now on display in the museum.

Evidence of life below the surface. Photo by Michael Manning/Flickr.

The network was originally created by the city’s early residents, but was built over and eventually forgotten to time while the city above grew and expanded. The building at ground level was converted into a luxury 23-room mansion in 1830 but had been abandoned by the 1970s and was being used as a dump by locals who had no idea of the treasures that lay underground.

Eventually the property was purchased by the current owner, Jorge Eckstein, who has spent 20 years restoring the building and the historical network underground, turning it into a museum for the public.

Screen Shot 2013-09-18 at 12.22.06 PM

Conservation is a process. Photo from El Zanjón/Facebook.

During a one-hour guided tour, you can see the restored mansion’s guest rooms, the kitchen, three patios, an enormous reception hall, as well as the underground tunnels that are wonderfully maintained. For anyone curious to know a bit of the story of this city’s rich past, a visit to El Zanjón is a must.

How to find El Zanjón

El Zanjón is located in the trendy Buenos Aires neighborhood of San Telmo.

Map from GoogleMap.

Address: Defensa 755, San Telmo, Buenos Aires
Website: El Zanjon
Tel: 4361- 3002
Email: turismo@elzanjon.com.ar
Hours: Monday – Friday (60 minute tours, starting at 11am to 3pm), Sunday (30 minute tours, 1 to 6pm), closed Saturday
Click here for additional information about El Zanjon tours and admission fees.

Photos and video

Photos
Buenos Aires – San Telmo: El Zanjón on Flickr
El Zanjón, Buenos Aires on Flickr

Video
Looking at textures in El Zanjon

Experience a Buenos Aires tour

Contact our team of experts to customize your package to Buenos Aires and beyond.

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Quito’s great historic center https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/quitos-great-historic-center/ Tue, 26 Feb 2013 20:33:04 +0000 http://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/?p=3783 Today, we travel to Ecuador to shine a spotlight on the historic wonders of Quito. Visitors to Quito will find a city that is modern, multifaceted, and energetic, but the city’s role in the history of South America is simply fascinating. Quito’s historical richness is such that UNESCO inscribed the city as one of the first ever World Heritage Sites in 1978, declaring Quito as the “best-preserved, least-altered historic center in Latin America.”

Although UNESCO’s designation is in acknowledgement of the city built by Spanish settlers and their descendants in the 16th through the 18th centuries, Quito’s pre-Columbian history is also a huge shaping factor. Before the Spanish arrived, Quito was the second capital (after Cusco) of the Inca Empire, and before that it was the capital of the Shyris or Quitu culture. The historical record is not conclusive, but evidence suggests that the Inca Emperor Huayna Capac was born in Ecuadorian territory and that his son, Atahualpa – the last emperor before the arrival of the Spanish – may have been born in Quito.

In 1534, a cavalry of Spanish conquistadors led by the captain Sebastián de Benalcazar rode into Quito expecting to find a city of gold (Atahualpa’s fabled treasure), but they encountered instead a city in ashes. Hearing of Atahualpa’s capture by conquistador Francisco Pizarro, the Inca general Rumiñahui had ordered his warriors to burn Quito to the ground. Undeterred in their zeal for colonization, the Spaniards founded San Francisco de Quito on December 6, 1534, upon the ruins of the Inca city.

Quito tour, Ecuador travel

Streets and houses are adapted to the hilly topography of Quito’s center.

Based on access to mineral resources, the development of a huge textile industry, and a strategic geographic position, Quito went on to become a fabulously wealthy city. The city elite used their profits to build mansions, grand churches, and even grander administrative palaces. Today, these monumental buildings are the most impressive features of the historic center of Quito, all arrayed around the main square, Plaza Grande, and the surrounding streets.

The city’s historic churches are a definite highlight of a Quito tour. The Jesuit Church, called Iglesia de la Compañía de Jesús, was built of volcanic gray stone between the years 1605 to 1765. The drab color of the façade is considered a fine example of baroque architecture and gives entrance to the visual delight of a richly gilded interior. The long central nave is roofed with intricately detailed wood carvings and Mudéjar figures in gold leaf, culminating in a golden altar considered to be the greatest work of the Quito School of Art.

Quito travel, Ecuador tours

The Church of the Society of Jesus is one of the most visually thrilling church interiors in South America.

San Francisco Church is another of Quito’s jewels. Construction for the church and monastery began in 1534, on the same site where the palace of Atahualpa lay in ruins. A wood carving of the Virgen de Quito, also known as the “Winged Virgin” and the “Dancing Virgin,” is the artistic centerpiece of the church. In an unusual depiction of the Madonna figure, the mestizo sculptor Bernardo de Legardia added wings to the figure and its flowing robes and upturned hands create a sensation of movement.

Another notable construction in the historic center is the massive presidential palace called Palacio de Carondelet, which is the seat of government in Ecuador and currently also functions as a museum. Construction of the first version of the palace began in 1570. Simon Bolivar resided here for brief periods of time during his campaign of independence from the Spanish Empire. The treasures of Quito’s historic center are thus hugely symbolic and deeply intertwined with stories of Ecuador and South America’s most influential characters and events.

As mentioned above, Quito as a city goes well beyond the historical. In and around the neighborhood of Mariscal Sucre (La Mariscal), modern Quito is equipped with parks, museums, shopping malls, and myriad attractions like the Teleferico cable car which transports visitors to a restaurant and park complex on the 4,000 meter slopes of the towering Pichincha Volcano. For its wealth of offerings, old and new, Quito is one of South America’s most exciting cities, fast outgrowing its status as a mere stopover prior to a Galapagos vacation launch. The city of Quito’s information website is a great resource for travelers planning an Ecuador vacation in Quito.

 

Latin America For Less provides comprehensive packages for travel to the Galapagos Islands, Quito, Guayaquil, and other destinations. Contact us to start planning your dream South America vacation.

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Water Fight! The Andean Roots of Carnival in Ecuador https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/water-fight-the-andean-roots-of-carnival-in-ecuador/ https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/water-fight-the-andean-roots-of-carnival-in-ecuador/#comments Fri, 23 Nov 2012 21:38:25 +0000 http://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/?p=3400 During Carnival in Ecuadorjuegos de agua (water games) take center stage in 8 days of wild celebration. Armed with water balloons and water guns, Ecuadorians turn public spaces into jubilant battlegrounds. Balconies and other high places serve as strategic positions from which to soak unsuspecting passersby. You can be sure of one thing only when you travel to Ecuador in February: expect to get wet.

As festivities kick into high gear, a carnivalesque spirit takes over the streets and surprises lurk around every corner. Water delivery instruments begin with balloons and water gun and are gradually upgraded to buckets and even water hoses. A common strategy for folks who’d rather not get doused is to equip themselves with rain ponchos and umbrellas before daring to venture out to the street. Water-phobic travelers are advised to do the same.

Carnival in Ecuador, water games

Carnival in Ecuador is water-ful. Are you game?

Why water?

As a water balloon hurtles in your direction, the ancient Andean roots of this tradition may not be immediately apparent. But Carnival in Ecuador – and across the Andes from Peru to Bolivia and parts of Chile and Argentina – is deeply interwoven with millennia-old indigenous traditions.

Prior to the 16th century arrival of Spanish colonizers, pre-Columbian Andean cultures celebrated planting festivals. Communities performed rituals with song and dance and made offerings of food and water to the fertility goddess, Pachamama (Mother World). Across the Andes, Pachamama’s special worship day is Martes de Challa or Challa Tuesday. In the Quechua language, challar means to sprinkle the earth. The date also happens to coincide with Shrove Tuesday in the Catholic calendar.

Aided by official Spanish policy to absorb indigenous beliefs into their own dominant religious practices, the two traditions merged over the slow course of centuries and evolved into today’s mestizo celebrations. On an Ecuador vacation in February, you’ll see the heady cultural mix of Catholic, indigenous, and modern influences on display everywhere, all melded together by the universal human impulse to let loose and have a good time.

Carnival in Ecuador, travel to Ecuador

You know things are getting serious when the water guns come out.

The historical record is not clear about how the transition to water balloons happened, but as early as the 17th century, there are documented attempts by city and religious officials to eradicate these “water games.” To say that these efforts failed would be an understatement. Even in the present day, cities like Guayaquil and Ambato have instituted bans on throwing water during Carnival. As the adage goes, “idle hands are the devil’s workshop,” and cities have begun to offer jam-packed schedules of Carnival events in order to keep people busy at all hours of the day.

But the battle is not so easily won. Faced with prohibitions against flinging water, revelers have found a replacement in foam. That’s right. People carry cans that emit sprays of watery foam with a smell similar to shaving cream. Once Carnival revs up, all bets are off. Water and foam stream through the festival air, and to top it off, flour and paint join the arsenal of carnival ammunition.

Faced with this situation, the best approach for participants who travel to South America during Carnival celebrations is to adopt an “anything-goes” attitude. Receiving the first water balloon hit is always a shock, but this feeling is quickly replaced by one of liberation. Having been bombed by diluted paint or water, reciprocity is in order – you are free to bomb at will.

Ecuador carnival

Don’t get caught without your can of spray foam!

Where to go for Carnival in Ecuador

The biggest celebrations of Carnival in Ecuador are in the cities of Guaranda and Ambato. Both draw hundreds of domestic and international travelers seeking to witness the country’s largest cultural event. In addition to water fights, these carnivals share a few other characteristics.

Festivities always begin with the entrance into town of Taita Carnaval (Father Carnival) in town. Wearing a traditional Andean outfit that includes a felt hat and a hand-woven, brightly colored lamb’s wool poncho, Taita rides atop a cart loaded with food and drink, representing agricultural bounty, and he is escorted by dozens of groups of dancers and trains of allegorically-decorated parade floats. The whole event is toasted with quantities of the drink known as pájaro azul. During the week, the people select from among Ecuador’s most beautiful women and choose the Kuski Raymi Ñusta, literally “pretty woman” or carnival queen.

Ambato Carnival, Ecuador travel

A popular attraction in Ambato is a huge religious mural constructed of fruits, breads, and flowers, which is perched over the doors of the Cathedral.

In Ambato, Carnival is also known as the Fiesta de las Flores y las Frutas (Festival of Flowers and Fruits). Floats are decorated with fruits and vegetables, and events include bullfights, fireworks, cockfights, and exhibitions of fruits, flowers, breads, and nuts typical of the region. 

Inspired to celebrate Carnival in Ecuador or the Andes? Contact us to start planning your own dreamSouth America vacation.

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Tropical Guayaquil, Ecuador travel highlight https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/tropical-guayaquil-ecuador-travel-highlight/ https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/tropical-guayaquil-ecuador-travel-highlight/#comments Tue, 10 Jul 2012 21:29:00 +0000 http://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/?p=2767 Guayaquil prides itself on its cosmopolitan offerings: a boardwalk which has become a principal node for tourism and commerce, revitalization projects in the city’s historic urban sectors, and beautification of public spaces, including wide, busy avenues lined with shops, restaurants, and other city accoutrements.

As the economic capital of Ecuador, Guayaquil also features an efficient mass transit system, a huge shipping port, and a diverse and dense population numbering 2.5 million residents. While the Andean cities of Quito and Cuenca treasure the past, Guayaquil is focused on the future, fostering a forward-looking attitude which adds to the city’s distinctive flair and makes it a must see on an Ecuador vacation.

Guayaquil travel, Ecuador travel, Galapagos For Less

Stroll along Malecón Simon Bolivar, the social heart of Guayaquil, where locals, called guayacos, go to shop, dine, and watch movies at the IMAX theatre.

Located on the shores of the Guayas River, which empties out into the Pacific Ocean, Guayaquil has a long history as a bustling port city. But probably the best expression of the city’s modern energy is the revitalized river boardwalk, Malecón 2000. As the social heart of this tropical metropolis, the malecón is the place to go to see and be seen as it functions as a kind of plaza or town square for the 21st century. Travelers will also find gardens, museums, fountains, historical monuments, restaurants, and bars, as well as boats that offer day and night tours along the Guayas River.

Guayaquil, Las Penas district, Ecuador tours

Climb the 456 steps from the shore of the Guayas River to Cerro Santa Ana, a small hill host to the best of Guayaquil’s nightlife.

Las Peñas is one of Guayaquil’s historic barrios, an old bohemian neighborhood located at the northern end of the Malecón which has recently undergone renewal. It is said that Che Guevara volunteered as a pediatrician in Las Peñas during his tour of South America in the 1953. Today, as part of a Guayaquil tour, travelers can walk the cobblestone streets, admire the colorful houses, and drop by cafés and artisan workshops. At night, the adjacent Cerro Santa Ana comes to life with pubs, bars, and clubs attracting spirited crowds ready to dance the night away.

Guayaquil’s parks are also attractions in themselves. Located in the middle of downtown, Parque Seminario is one of the city’s historic plazas, where visitors will be treated to the sight of land iguanas! The Guayaquil Cathedral stands on one edge of the park and is a photogenic sight during the day and at night.

Parque Histórico Guayaquil is located 20 minutes from the center of downtown. This park comprises 3 areas: a Wildlife Zone with native flora and fauna, including mangrove swamps; an Urban Architectural Zone with examples of buildings from Ecuador’s “golden age;” and a Traditional Zone with exhibits on life in rural, agricultural Ecuador. Boasting musical shows and samples of local cuisine, this park provides first time visitors to Ecuador a great introduction to the country’s customs, culture, and natural features.

If you are planning a Galapagos cruise, all flights to the magical archipelago depart from either Quito or Guayaquil, making them a perfect stop before heading out on your exploration! Look through our Galapagos travel guide and contact our team to create a fully customized Ecuador travel package with tours to Cuenca, Quito, and other destinations.

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The Best Museums in Buenos Aires https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/museums-in-buenos-aires/ Fri, 06 Jul 2012 22:23:16 +0000 http://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/?p=2761 July is a great time to visit Buenos Aires, the “Paris of the South.” The weather might be chilly, but the city heats up with a myriad of concerts, festivals, and exhibitions. Throughout the month of July, the Ministry of Tourism and Culture will be offering free tours to historical and cultural sites around Buenos Aires, a perfect addition to an Argentina travel itinerary.

One of these tours takes visitors to Usina del Arte (Art Factory), the city’s newest cultural space in La Boca. This former power plant turned modern art museum was recently inaugurated with a tribute concert to Astor Piazzola, Argentina’s premier tango composer, and features a symphony hall, dance stage, and rooms for visual art exhibits.

Buenos Aires is abuzz with the opening of La Usina del Arte

Buenos Aires is abuzz with the opening of La Usina del Arte, a great addition to any Buenos Aires tour itinerary.

It is said that in the early 20th century, cartoonists flocked to Buenos Aires in the same way writers did to Paris. Museo de Humor (MUHU) is another new museum that pays homage to the long tradition of graphic humor in Argentina, with works by more than 150 Argentine and international artists.  MUHU was recently inaugurated in June 2012, with a 10 meter statue of Mafalda, Argentina’s most recognizable cartoon figure, standing by the entrance.

The museum is housed in the Edificio de la Cerveceria Munich, a historic building that was once a brewery, restaurant, and gathering place where notable figures such as Pablo Neruda would go to socialize. On weekends, visitors can partake in “Afternoons of music, tea, and beer” at La Munich, featuring musicians playing classical music as well as traditional tangos and milongas. On Tuesday and Thursday afternoons, the guided tour “De la Mujer al Humor” takes visitors on a walk through the trendy, revitalized Puerto Madero neighborhood, ending at MUHU.

Mafalda, an iconic Argentine cartoon

Mafalda, an iconic Argentine cartoon character by the graphic artist Quino, sits on a bench in front of Quino’s childhood home in San Telmo, a bohemian neighborhood ideal for both guided tours and independent exploration on an Argentina vacation.

The city’s many other museums and cultural events will similarly be offering guided visits, workshops, and cultural programs. For example, in addition to their regular exhibits, the Museo Casa Carlos Gardel will be offering tango classes, and the Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano will be hosting performances of baroque music.

For a full schedule of cultural events in July 2012 and beyond, see the Buenos Aires Agenda Cultural (English and Spanish): http://agendacultural.buenosaires.gob.ar/.

And for more travel ideas, visit our Argentina For Less website or contact a travel advisor to start planning your fully customized Argentina vacation.

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Cuenca, the “Athens of Ecuador” https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/ecuador-travel-highlight-cuenca-the-athens-of-ecuador/ Tue, 29 May 2012 22:34:34 +0000 http://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/?p=2652 Also known as the Athens of Ecuador, Cuenca is famed for the majestic architecture of its many churches, cathedrals, cloisters, and colonial houses, as well as for the numerous artists, novelists, poets, and other lettered persons that the city has produced. The emphasis on culture and art is definitely among the reasons visitors travel to Cuenca during their Ecuador travel. In this, the third largest city of Ecuador (population 400,000), travelers will find a small metropolis that manages to balance modernizing influences with a deep respect for cultural traditions and its historical past.

Modern Internet cafes and traditional artisan workshops co-exist side-by-side on the cobblestoned streets of Cuenca.

Modern Internet cafes and traditional artisan workshops co-exist side-by-side on the cobblestoned streets of Cuenca.

Among South American cities, Cuenca has the distinction of being one of the first to be established by Spanish settlers in 1537. Prior to this, the region was also the center of the Cañari civilization, which was later incorporated into the Inca Empire around 1470 under the name of Tomebamba. Under the reign of Huayna Capac, Tomebamba was the second seat of the empire. According to chronicles recorded after the Spanish Conquest, the city was filled with glorious palaces and temples built to house priests and nobility. When Spanish conquistadors arrived in 1533, Tomebamba had been abandoned and they found no remnants of the gold, silver, and other precious metals that were said to fill the holy places.

Present-day Cuenca is bisected by the Rio Tomebamba. While the southern section has modern and recent constructions, the northern section houses the historic center. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, this area is characterized by cobblestone streets and red-tiled roofs, as well as the parks, squares, and churches built by Spanish settlers in the years following the conquest. Cuenca tours take travelers to the most important of these historical sites, including La Catedral, one of the most monumental of cathedrals in all Latin America, which when completed, was big enough to house all 10,000 of Cuenca’s residents.

The pink façade and blue domes of the new Cuenca cathedral, known as La Catedral, is one of the iconic sites of Cuenca travel. The cathedral is located on Parque Calderon, the social and historical heart of the city.

The pink façade and blue domes of the new Cuenca cathedral, known as La Catedral, is one of the iconic sites of Cuenca travel. The cathedral is located on Parque Calderon, the social and historical heart of the city.

Cuenca is also the center of artisan culture in Ecuador, where travelers can find leather goods, ceramics, gold jewelry, and perhaps surprisingly for some, Panama hats. Locally known as the sombrero de paja toquilla, this straw hat has its origins in Ecuador, but acquired its name from its most common point of sale at the port in Panama. The hat gained further popularity when U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt visited the Panama Canal and was photographed wearing one of these “Panama hats.”

A final highlight of an Ecuador tour to Cuenca is the opportunity to visit El Cajas National Park, located 18 miles (30 km) west from the city. Situated at 10,170-14,600 feet (3,100-4,450 meters) above sea level, this reserve has over 200 beautiful lagoons, lakes, and rivers of glacial origin as well as pre-Inca and Inca ruins. Among the unique flora and fauna in the park are the quinua (paper tree) forests, the South American Condor, the Giant Hummingbird, and the Curiquinga, a large raptor.

Beautiful glacier-carved lagoons dot the cloud forest and paramo highlands of this national park near Cuenca.

Beautiful glacier-carved lagoons dot the cloud forest and paramo highlands of this national park near Cuenca.

Located south of Quito and east of Guayaquil, Cuenca is an easy addition to any Ecuador travel package.

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Exploring the Art Scene in Buenos Aires https://www.latinamericaforless.com/blog/buenos-aires-art-scene/ Fri, 22 Apr 2011 10:16:52 +0000 http://latinamericaforless.com/blog/?p=1366 This extraordinary blend of cultures, flavors, and people is especially reflected in the diverse art scene of Buenos Aires: the city is arguably home to the continent’s best museums and holds hidden treasures sure to enrapture even most discerning art afficionados.

Museum of Fine Arts

The Museum of Fine Arts in Buenos Aires

The Museum of Fine Arts in Buenos Aires

Among the city’s many museums, two deserve special mention and should be incorporated into any trip to Buenos Aires. Perhaps the most complete and well-maintained is the famous Museo de Bellas Artes (Museum of Fine Arts) located in the upscale district of Recoleta on Avenida Libertador. Here you’ll find permanent classic art displays as well as temporary exhibitions from modern Latin American artists. If contemporary art is your guilty pleasure, make sure to pay a visit to the Museo de Arte LatinoAmericana de Buenos Aires (MALBA).

Grafitti

Graffiti art in Buenos Aires

Graffiti art in Buenos Aires

Only true Porteños – inhabitants of Buenos Aires – know about the city’s real artistic treasures, which can be found virtually on every corner. What may seem like vandalism to many is actually Buenos Aires’ most extraordinary and creative form of artistic expression: graffiti. Convince a friendly local to show you around, or take a Buenos Aires walking art tour to see the most impressive of these ephemeral masterpieces.

San Telmo, Buenos Aires’ oldest district, is teeming with such works of art and is a pleasure to explore—you never know what you’re going to stumble upon. Make sure to stop at the Art Factory Hostel, which houses the city’s largest permanent exhibition of graffiti and mural art.

Art Galleries

Buenos Aires is home to a spectacular number of smaller art galleries, many of which deserve a stop, if only for a peep. Most of them can be found in the district of San Telmo or Palermo. Among the most alternative and acclaimed galleries is Mar Dulce, brand new and boasting a well-stocked library of art books. Another top choice is Wallrod, which is off the beaten path and probably one of the most happening galleries in Buenos Aires. Once a month most venues stay open late and put on shows for Gallery Night.

Art Fair

Internationally recognized as a world capital for arts, Buenos Aires annually holds an International Art Fair, known as Arte BA, where artists from around the world gather to share their work and set new art trends. This year, the fair will take place from Thursday, May 19 to Monday, May 23 everyday from 1 p.m. to 9 p.m. Over 70 art galleries throughout the city will be participating in the event and will display works from selected artists. The trendy and bohemian barrio Joven Chandon will host the fair.

If you wish to learn more about Buenos Aires’ many treasures and attractions, and start planning your exciting Argentina vacation, contact one of our travel advisors.

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